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Chapter - 2 Minorca Discovered
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Cala Santa Galdana, often called
the 'Queen of the Playas', is the centrepiece of the last group of beaches
on the south coast. It is a half-circle of white sands and crystal-clear
emerald water, sheltered from the north by rugged cliffs clad in pine,
and embraced by noble headlands. Until a few years ago it was a solitary
place, but now has several large hotels and is crowded in summer. Some
Minorcans are not too happy about what they have done, and think the 'Queen'
should abrogate her title.
The largest permanent stream on
the island enters the sea at Galdana, after traversing its greatest barranca
- the Barranca of Algendar. The Moors knew and used the shelter of Santa
Galdana, which they named Guad-al-Anna, this name being later corrupted
in Christian times to its present one, although there is no saint of that
name.
Galdana's attendant beaches are
Cala Mitjana and Trebaluger, to the east, and Macarella and Macarelleta
farther west. These can be reached on foot through the pinewoods which
here reach to the edge of the cliffs. Trebaluger is the least accessible,
and has a Robinson Crusoe quality, with a two-roomed cave beside its pink
sands, and a brook of fresh water running past one's 'door'. The scene
seems unchanged since antiquity.
Cala Mitjana, incredibly blue and
scintillating, to which one clambers down through rocks and pine, is small
and intimate. Beyond it lies a larger arm to which one can swim. The twin
calas of Macarella and Macarelleta are so close that one can also swim
from one to the other, or traverse the prehistoric rock steps in the intervening
cliff. In medieval times these beaches were the favourite hide-outs of
Barbary pirates raiding the island.
The western end
The western end of the island is
less attractive than the south, and like the extreme east is rather flat
and bare. Its main feature is the island's second town, Ciudadela, which
is as strongly Spanish in architecture and character as Mahon is British.
The one provides a pleasing contrast to the other.
Ciudadela has a modest harbour some
1,000m in length. There are several small beaches in the vicinity notably
Santandria and Cala Blanca. Near the latter are the notable Caves of Parella,
which have stalagmites and stalactites, and a small underground lake. The
more distant beaches of Cala Turqueta, . Arenal de Son Saura and Cala Bosch
lie to the south.
Cala Turqueta is rated highly by
many visitors, and still undeveloped.
THE CONTRASTING NORTH
In general the northern coastline
is more indented and the cliff scenery more majestic and impressive than
in the south. It receives the full blast of the tramontana, and in winter
the spray can rise hundreds of feet in a white mist above distant headlands.
The finest view in Minorca or of
it is from the lighthouse a the tip of the long, finger-like promontory
of Cap Cavalleria, looking south across the island. This is the island's
most northerly point. In the immediate foreground is a little bay that
is the forgotten Phoenician and Roman port of Sanitja, and beyond it an
expanse of sea and cliff scenery on both sides, with a background of the
whole of the island's hills, panoramic and breathtaking.
Fornells
With the exception of the fishing
village of Fornells in the bay of the same name, the north coast, like
the south, has no township though several urbanizations. Fornells has been
a fixed centre of population for centuries on account of its port, which
is almost as long as Port Mahon and wider. The Bay of Fornells (pronounced
'Forneys') is 5km long and 2km wide, but is shallower than Port Mahon,
and difficult to navigate. The village is situated near its mouth on the
west bank of the bay. Apart from a row of palm trees on the quay, it is
reminiscent of Cornwall, with its fishing craft and lobster creels, and
attracts. artists and lovers of boats.
On the headland beyond the village
stood the ancient castle of Fornells, now in ruins. In 1741 it was a square
fort with four bastions and curtain walls, large enough inside to have
houses bordering on a square, to accommodate a small garrison with stores
and ammunition. Fornells was a secondary invasion port in the first British
expedition against Minorca in 1708.
In the bay is the Ille de Ses Sargantanes
('Lizard Island'), which like the isle of Aire in the south, has a subspecies
of reptile peculiar to it.
Beaches and lakes
The north has several magnificent
beaches, and many more tiny ones which have to be sought out. The major
ones include Binimel-La, lying to the west of Fornells, and Arenal de Son
Saura and Arenal d' en Castell to the east. All of these are backed by
sand dunes. Cala Tirant and Binimel-La have small lagoons. They have all
been developed for tourists and are approached by good roads.
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