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Chapter - 2 Minorca Discovered
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The south coast
The south coast does not contain
a single town, but is a succession of idyllic beaches interspersed with
majestic cliffs. There are about a dozen major playas, each widely different
in character. Most have undergone tourist development – ‘urbanization'
is the ugly word used - but building was carried out with imagination.
In addition are many smaller coves, more difficult to reach but well worth
the adventure.
Proceeding westward along the south
coast the first beach is Alcaufar, a narrow cleft with a hotel and residential
chalets. It was here that the British landed in 1708 when they first conquered
and occupied the island, and it was a disembarkation point for Spanish
troops under the Duc de Crillon in the Franco Spanish invasion of 1781.
Nearby is the tourist complex of
S'Algar, boldly sited on a rocky stretch of coastline with no beach, but
of great charm. Sloping down towards the sea, it has hotels, swimming pools,
attractive villas, shops, restaurants, sports clubs and green lawns. The
predominant flowers are pink and white oleanders and canna lilies.
Next along the coast are the playas
of Punta Prima and Binibeca, reached through San Luis. The former has attractive
hotels, some on the chalet system. Offshore lies the Isla de l'Aire, with
a lighthouse. It was off this island that Admiral Byng's unsuccessful battle
against the French in 1756 cost him his life. Zoologists visit the Isla
de l'Aire to see the unique black lizards which are a subspecies indigenous
to this island.
At Binibeca is a delightful beach,
with a bar-restaurant in a stone boathouse on the rocks, which rightly
claims that it is 'the only bar where one can drink with one's feet in
the sea'. The name Binibeca is Arabic in origin, the prefix 'Bini' meaning
'belonging to the sons of'. A little further along the coast is a tourists'
summer fishing village built in Catalan style, dazzlingly white, with narrow
alleys and gay balconies. It has a slipway for boats and facilities for
swimming from the rocks.
Several small beaches follow, like
Binidali and Canutells; their names are also of Arab origin. They are best
approached through the village of San Clemente. The swimmer will find seclusion
and limpid clear water. Biniasfua is a perfect spot for deep water swimming
from the rocks.
Two widely contrasting inlets of
the sea follow, Cales Coves and Cala'n Porter (also occasionally spelt
Cala en Porter). They adjoin each other, separated only by spectacular
cliffs, and resemble small fjords. In terms of human occupation they
are nearly four thousand years apart. Cales Coves is the site of the largest
group of cave dwellings on the island. Cala'n Porter is the island's most
complete tourist and residential township, with a magnificent beach, and
is completely equipped for either holidays or permanent living. A hotel,
restaurants, and several shops and supermarkets are concentrated in a pleasant
commercial area on high ground above the beach, and there are widely scattered
residential zones with some 700 villas. Pioneer residents are mostly concentrated
near the commercial zone, but later arrivals have either chosen more elevated
sites commanding wide sea-views, or faced inland to enjoy restful landscapes;
while the 'cliff-hangers' have built villas not suitable for sleep-walkers.
Discreetly tucked away in one corner is the discotheque of Cova d'en Xoroi
- in a large cave in the cliffs.
Upstream for 5km (3 miles) from
the beach stretches a barranca with an attractive orchard of oranges, lemons,
apricots and vines. A pathway leading alongside it makes a pleasant walk.
Cala'n Porter has a regular and
frequent bus service to Mahon. It has electricity and a chlorinated water
supply, and as one of the few 'colonies' which come directly under the
administration of its nearest municipality at Alayor, is on the way to
becoming the first ever 'new town' on Minorca's south coast.
There follows along the south coast
chain of major beaches unrivalled in Europe for beauty.
The first is the 3km stretch of
white sands which include the playas of Son Bou and San Jaime. The easiest
approach is by the new road just west of Alayor, taking one directly on
to the beach by a spectacular tunnel through the rocky hillside behind
it.
High up on this hillside and facing
the sea are prehistoric cave dwellings and defensive walls, evidence of
its early occupation. The old name for Son Bou was an Arab one: Ses Canessies,
meaning 'Christian church', but its meaning appears to have been forgotten
for many centuries, as it was not until 1951 that the ruins of a fifth-century
Byzantine basilica were excavated right by the water's edge. Where Son
Bou merges into San Jaime, the hillside is covered in pinewoods, with white
villas built among the trees. One may return to the main highway by the
San Jaime road.
The next group are the twin playas
of Santo Tomas and Santo Adeodato, which are a continuation of the two
beaches just described, separated from them by a low headland. They are
best approached via the island's central road, turning off at the village
of San Cristobal. These attractive beaches have pinewoods to the water's
edge, a number of hotels, and a sports centre.
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