10
Chapter - 2 Minorca Discovered
11
PORT MAHON
As one approaches Port Mahon by sea,
the modern naval station on Cap Mola lies to starboard, and on one's left
is the spot where the formidable Fort St Philip once stood; scarcely a
vestige remains.
At its entrance, Port Mahon is only
225m wide (250yd), with a depth of 8 fathoms; but this widens to a maximum
of 900m (l,000yd) and deepens to 16 fathoms. It is 5.4km (6,000yd) long.
It is thus almost landlocked, and its popularity with sailing ships as
a refuge from Mediterranean storms is readily understood; for the tramontana
is no respecter of persons, and the almost tideless sea is quickly
whipped to fury. The only trouble appears to have been in leaving when
the wind fell, or when it was blowing onshore. In the sixteenth century
the famous Venetian Admiral Andrea Doria expressed this succinctly in the
following couplet: .
Junio, Julio, Agosto y Puerto
Mahon
Los mejores puertos del Mediterraneo
son.
(June, July, August and Port Mahon
are the best ports in the Mediterranean.)
Entering the port one passes
several islets. The first is New Quarantine Island, also known as Lazareto,
which formed a peninsula until 1900. It is hardly 'new'; its high surrounding
walls were built to prevent escape of infection! It has a unique circular
chapel with an altar in its centre, and small barred cells for the sick
around the periphery. The parson took no chances.
The small seaport of Villa
Carlos (Es Castell) on the left, around the bay of Cala Fons, and formerly
known as Georgetown, was built by the British shortly after 1763. Almost
opposite it, in mid-stream, lies the Isla Plana or Old Quarantine Island,
once an American naval base. The third islet, round which early-morning
water skiers skim, has an even more interesting history. The Isla del Rey,
or King's Island, has three main claims to interest. A mosaic floor of
its former Roman villa can be seen in Mahon's museum; King Alphonso III
of Aragon landed on it in 1287, when Minorca first became Spanish; and
it was later the site of the British hospital in the eighteenth century,
when the troops christened it 'Bloody Island'.
On the hillside to the left stands
the red Georgian villa of El Fonduco (now an hotel), which was Admiral
Collingwood's residence towards the end of the Napoleonic Wars. On the
opposite side of the port, high on its hillside and surrounded by yellow
gorse, is the still more famous and noble vIlla of San Antonio or 'Golden
Farm'. It commands a magnificent view of the whole port, and it was here
that Nelson stayed on one of his visits to Port Mahon. Next comes the inlet
of Cala Figuera on the left, known in the eighteenth century as 'English
Cove'. It was the watering-place of the British Navy.
Soon, the capital town of Mahon
comes into view; perched high on a cliff above the quay, the church of
Santa Maria dominating the skyline. Dazzlingly white, Mahon has a typically
Mediterranean aspect, though closer acquaintance reveals many familiar
British traits.
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