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Chapter 10 - Island Life
& Culture
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FIESTAS
No account of the island's cultural
life is complete without a description of her fiestas, in which Minorcans
participate with great enthusiasm.
The word 'fiesta' is nowadays applied
to any holiday - national or saint's day - and all are celebrated with
equal gaiety when any early religious devotions have been completed. Since
each town and village has its own patron saint, the summer months seem
a succession of such holidays. The first intimation the innocent visitor
receives on approaching his nearest small town, may be closed shops and
'no entry' signs completely blocking off its main street, which is entirely
given over to the celebrations - even to equestrian contests. At night
he will be disturbed by fireworks and song, and on the following day restaurants
and bars will close to allow staff to recover.
Minorca's main fiestas are unique
in that they re-enact some outstanding event in the island's history, or
portray a period, as in an historical pageant. In spite of their gaiety,
Minorcans feel that they are taking part in an act of commemoration. The
best example of this is the Fiesta of St.John at Ciudadela, which takes
place each year on 24 and 25 June. It has been listed by the Spanish government
as being of 'international tourist interest', and merits a short description.
Fiesta of San Juan
The festival of St.John commemorates
San Juan, the patron saint of Ciudadela. Essentially it is a procession
or cavalcade on horseback, which halts at intervals on its route to indulge
in various performances and rites. The horsemen are made up of representatives
from the traditional medieval classes: nobility, clergy, peasants and craftsmen.
The patron of the fiesta is known as the 'Caixer Senyor', and together
with the other riders is appointed each year.
The traditional dress of the riders
varies with their rank, but from its nature cannot be as old as the rites
performed. In general it consists of spurred riding boots, breeches, tailed
coat, two-pointed hat and sword. Craftsmen can be recognised by their black
suits, and peasants by their white trousers. The patron seems to be in
evening dress, except for his white riding breeches and long boots. He
wears white gloves.
The procession and its rituals and
trappings have a medieval air, and the festival is believed to have originated
in the early fourteenth century. Both the colourful trappings of the horses
and flag carried by the standard-bearer display a white Maltese cross on
a red background, which was the insignia of both the Knights of St.John
of Jerusalem and Knights of Malta. It is thought that some of the latter
may have taken part in the Christian conquest of Minorca in 1287 by Alphonso
III of Aragon, an inference that is in keeping with the equestrian feats
of the fiesta which resemble medieval jousts and tournaments. Leading this
splendid cavalcade of horsemen, to the music of flageolet and drum, rides
a humble herald mounted on a donkey.
On the Sunday before 24 June, the
festival is opened by a short ceremony in which a young man, possibly representing
St.John, clad in lambskin and decked with flowers, carries a live lamb
through the town, accompanied by a small group.
The main celebrations begin on 24
June, and start with a parade round the Borne Square, after which the cavalcade
goes on a 'pilgrimage' to the Hermitage of St.John, 5km outside Ciudadela.
On its return it stops at Es Pla, on open space at the head of the port,
where traditional games on horseback and mock jousts are carried out. The
characteristic rearing of the horses on their hindlegs throughout the whole
festival is supposed to imitate these jousts. A pre-arranged circuit of
the old city is then carried out, and the people are out in their thousands,
cheering and throwing nuts at horsemen and each other. In their excitement
some vie with each other to invite horse and rider into the vestibule or
patio of their house as this is considered to bring good fortune; this
is not as foolhardy as it sounds, as they have taken the precaution of
barricading their inner rooms.
The final part of the procession
is through the narrow shopping street of Jose Maria Quadrado, opening out
into the spacious Borne Square. This is the climax, and the signal for
unrestrained gaiety. The crowds mix with the rearing horses, and jollity
continues far into the night, ending with a firework display.
Fiesta of Our Lady of Grace
Each of the other towns and villages
celebrates its saint's day with equestrian displays, such as the fiesta
of San Lorenzo at Alayor, and of St Bartholomew at Ferrerias, both in August.
Only Mahon's fiesta in the first
week of September in honour of 'the Virgin, Our Lady of Grace', is in sharp
contrast. Looking forward and not back, it has become a Civic or Festival
Week in the modern sense, and a whole week of joyous celebrations precedes
its single day of religious ceremonies. For the celebrations of the fiesta
in one year, the mayor's committee drew up a programme of events from which
no possible recreation or spectacle was omitted, and the organisation and
showmanship were superb.
Events started with a civic reception
to representatives from the sister-city of Barcelona, and the crowning
of the Barcelona mayor's daughter as 'Floral Queen of the Fiesta'. Prizes
were given for floral displays, and the prize poem of welcome was read
by the Catalan Poet Laureate.
The second day (Sunday) offered
shooting and cycling contests, a football match between Ibiza and Mahon,
with 'majorettes' in red-and-white uniforms to parade and entertain the
crowds. .For the children there was a mammoth party on the Esplanade, financed
by a local firm.
During the week, interspersed with
the Song Festival and opera, were kart-racing, free aeroplane flights,
excursions to the King's Island, and sailing regattas in Port Mahon. An
aircraft of the Iberia airline was christened City of Mahon by the mayoress,
and Friday brought a Parade of Giants and Battle of Flowers, with brass
bands. On Saturday there were mass parachute-drops by the Spanish air force.
On the closing day of the Festival
a solemn procession to the church of Santa Maria took place, in which an
image of the Virgin Mary was borne aloft. All the civic and public bodies
were represented, and local bands were joined by those from the American
and Italian navies.
Christmas in Minorca
Minorcans have an exuberance and
flair for showmanship in their fiestas, and this is particularly noticeable
in those which their children share, as at Christmas. As in other countries,
shops are decorated and full of exotic toys, the streets illuminated and
made bright with Christmas trees and cribs of the Nativity. Bands play
in the squares. The giving of presents, however, does not take place until
Twelfth Night (6 January), and is associated with Los Reyes Magos (the
Three Kings or Wise Men), who brought gifts to the Infant Jesus. This is
made the occasion for a jollification for the children of Mahon, in which
press, army and navy all take a part.
On the previous day the local newspaper
publishes the following mock telegram from the Three Kings:
OFICE OF ORIGIN:
THE EAST
DESTINATION:
MAHON.
ADDRESSEE:
CHILDREN OF THE CITY STOP SUPERCARGO OF TOYS ARIVING AT COMMERCIAL
DOCK TODAY AT 1830 STOP
SENDERS' NAME:
GASPAR, MELCHIOR & BALTAZAR STOP
The children assembled on the quay,
having been. told that the ship arriving from the East is too large
to enter the port, welcome the Three Kings (suitably attired), who are
brought ashore by a naval launch, and received by the deputy governor of
the island, by the military governor and by the mayor. After welcoming
speeches the Three Kings go in procession through the city in decorated
'state' coaches, preceded by pages bearing symbolic gifts for the child
Jesus.
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Chapter 11 - Places to visit - Things to do... 71
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